VAULT completed in May, a meticulous concourse-quality restoration of a circa 1937 Wayne Model 866 gas pump back to its original factory appearance and condition.

Every detail of this pump was accurately, and faithfully, reproduced to the highest level of quality to preserve its historical distinguishing characteristics, content, and vintage “factory correct” appearance. This is one of the finest gas pumps in existence restored in one of the most desirable, and striking, gasoline brands (Polly Gas). Information about the Wayne Company and this particular model is at the very bottom of this description.

This rare pump is for sale for $11,296.25, plus shipping.

Here is detailed information about how this pump was restored back to its original appearance:

Disassembly & Metal Dipping of All Parts - This pump was completely disassembled and all parts, including inside and outside framing, panels, cabinets, covers, mechanisms, and all interior and exterior parts were acid dipped to remove all
paint and contaminants.

Factory Correct Parts - All parts have been expertly restored with identical reproduction or NOS replacement parts to make your gas pump appear new from its shipping crate. All missing or damaged parts were replaced with identical replacement parts.

Sanding & Filling – All exterior parts of the gas pump were restored to achieve surfaces as close to original contours as possible without any pitting or surface imperfections. Catalyzed plastic filler was used to smooth out minor (one-eighth or less) imperfections and sanded so that all panels have a straight, mirror surface.

Priming - A two-coat primer was used beginning with a catalyzed polyester self-etching primer. After this first coat, all minute imperfections were block sanded as successively finer grits of abrasive are used ending in 320 before the final priming and then color painting was applied.

Base Coat/Clear Coat Paint - Vault specifies a premium best base/clear coat system to achieve a concourse-quality paint job. All colors are matched against factory mint original gas pumps, company literature and manuals. Many pumps that are restored do not pay attention to factory colors. This pump was historically accurate to original colors and paint schemes.

Finishing - To achieve a concourse paint appearance to showroom quality standards all exterior parts and panels were wet sanded and hand buffed to eliminate “orange peel" and dust particles in the paint surface. This renders the painted surface of your pump flatter than the applied paint can be achieved naturally and enhances the final beauty of the pump.

Re-Assembly – All parts that were removed were individually restored and reattached. Each part, even each fastener, were re-conditioned from functional to museum quality. All trim was polished and plated in triple nickel plating. Original
fasteners were either re-plated or replaced.

Historically Accurate Details/Factory Correct Parts - Here are some examples of how Vault pays attention to quality details:

• Fasteners - Factory correct fasteners made from brass and nickel are 10X-15X the cost of zinc-plated screws
but this small detail makes an aesthetic difference in the presentation of this pump.

• Advertising Globe – Most restorers will skimp on their restorations by using a plastic globe holder, when
originally pumps were outfitted with metal globe bodies which is what Vault uses.

• Metal Parts –Where the stainless was missing or damaged beyond repair, Vault replaced these parts with real
nickel-plated metal and reattached them using threaded shafts and fasteners. No “plastic nickel plate” or
“stick-on metal or aluminum” parts were used in the restoration of this pump.

• Show Chrome on All External Metal Parts - Chrome plating is hardly a matter of dipping a piece of metal into a tank, but rather a long involved process that often starts with tedious polishing and buffing, then cleaning and acid dipping, zincating (if the part is aluminum), and copper plating. For top reflectivity, Vault uses "Show Chrome", which further includes buffing of the copper for perfect smoothness, cleaning and acid dipping
again, and plating more copper, then two or three different types of nickel plating, all before the chrome plating is done. Rinsing is required between every step. The end result is concourse quality plating. The plating costs alone on this pump exceeded $1200.

• Signage - No vinyl lettering or logo’s were used in the restoration process because it is not historically correct to the gas pump. The exterior shell of your pump was restored back to its original state with water glass decals only. All signage is screened in factory correct sizes and colors using factory correct procedures. Only factory correct brass ID badging and warning signs are used and these are even engraved with the original serial
number of this particular pump so that its history can be retained. Even a ‘Department of Weights and Measures’ decal was replicated to authenticate the pump as certified accurate.

• White Cloth Hose – Although white cloth hoses are more expensive than rubber hoses, Vault uses only original hose items, with chromed ends.

If you didn’t know this was a crankshaft,

wouldn’t you think it was a piece of architectural art? My friend Ed Levy handcrafts these one-of-a-kind lamps from discarded cylinder heads, cranks and camshafts into something that is truly unique. The quality and level… of each detail is outstanding and there is a tremendous amount of work that does drilling each crank, powder coating or nickel plating them and then mounting them on a wood, marble or granite base.

Each time I show clients the lamp that Ed built for me, which have been from the crank of a Porsche 911, they have to own one – which is why today there is a blank space on my desk here at Vault where a lamp used to sit.

Campbell Levy Designs – Handcrafted. Exquisite. Powerful.

You don’t have to decide whether it’s an intriguing work of art, a beautifully crafted lamp, or a memorable way to show your passion for the automobile…because it’s all three.

Designed and created entirely in their own studio, Campbell Levy Designs, has created a line of high-end crankshaft and cylinder head lamps for the truly discerning auto aficionado’s home or office.

Each of the lamps are one-of-a-kind, custom made by Father-Son duo, Edward and Campbell Levy.

“Seeing a thing of beauty in a grimy, machine-made piece of equipment that has been buried under the hood of a car, and then to realize it, requires a particular type of imagination. Campbell and his Father, Edward, perform their alchemy on remnants of exotic, vintage and luxury cars, making gleaming lamps out of crankshafts and other unusual car parts,” writes Danielle Goodman of LUXE Colorado magazine, on the creative duo at Campbell Levy Designs.

Far from tacky auto part sculptures of yesteryear, the lamps consist of solid granite, marble, or exotic wood bases, silk shades, and true architectural prowess.

Extreme attention to detail, and perfection are instantly associated with the lamps created in the Colorado studio. “Beautiful,” “Outstanding,” “A true work of Art” are just a few of the praises from customers.

For the first time, collectors, racers, and auto enthusiasts are able to bring their passion from the racetrack or garage inside their homes. With numerous options, such as nickel plating, custom made shades, and innumerable finishes, each lamp is truly an extension of one’s love for the automobile.

Representing much more than a simple lamp, every Campbell Levy Designs creation encompasses power, beauty, and one-of-a-kind design, and instantly becomes the center of attention in any space it inhabits.

It Starts with developing a budget

Organizing your garage with cabinetry is no different to furnishing any other part of your home. If you have ever tackled a large-scale new home construction or remodeling project, then you know that it can be a process that is full of a lot of decision-making. In order to get the garage of your dreams and the solution that will best serve your needs, you will need to prioritize your decisions. It all starts with your budget.

In general, garage cabinets are the single most important garage improvement purchase that you will make. Your investment in cabinetry should serve you for many years, so it is not uncommon for your garage cabinets to be as much as seventy percent of your overall budget.

Considering that your garage cabinets may be a large investment, you need to get this phase of your garage remodeling right. This means calculating your budget carefully to determine what you can afford. Numerous factors should go into this calculation, such as the value of your home, the value of the homes in your area and how long you plan to live in your home. Once you have calculated your budget, set aside at least half of it for your garage cabinetry since they will be your single largest expense. While results vary, of course, it is not unreasonable to expect to recoup the majority of your garage cabinet investment when you sell your house.

Clearly, furnishing your garage is no small investment, and this means that you should choose wisely. Budget can undo all sorts of great remodeling jobs and your garage is no exception. One of the most common mistakes homeowners make are decisions made under duress, such as needing to meet a timeline, so they opt for cheaper cabinets that are available immediately versus waited a bit longer to get what they really desire. In most all cases, those clients who skimp or rush their decision-making because they did not budget enough time or money always seem to regret their second choice, which invariably is cheaper and readily available, but of lesser quality.

Just as with most decision-making processes, rushing to judgment can get you stuck with a product that may not meet your needs or expectations. If you have ever built a new home or remodeled any part of your home, then you likely already know the danger of rushing into a decision. For example, some people make a big leap into buying a product a home furnishing without doing their research, only later to realize they do not like it, it does not meet their needs, or they soon find a better product they wish they had purchased instead.

There is another danger to buying cheaper cabinets; they really are cheaper. The garage is a harsh environment that demands cabinetry must be up to the task of:

(1) storing heavy items;

(2) durable enough so that they are not easily scratched or dented;

(3) resist contact with automobile fluids, chemicals, cleaners and other items commonly stored in the garage; and

(4) able to hold up to the extreme fluctuations in temperature and humidity that can wreak havoc on cabinets and cause major problems over time.

If you buy cheap cabinetry, you run the risk of ending up with an inferior product to cabinets that are built to a higher level of quality. This means that they may end up with problems like poor durability or performance. Garage cabinets are just like every other manufactured good in that if quality and performance are important, you will have to budget for that quality.

Stay true to your vision. If your project is delayed because you need a larger budget or the product has to be special-ordered, then so be it. After all, what do a few extra weeks or months mean to a product that will serve you the entire time you will reside in your home. It is best to wait until your budget can accommodate the exact garage cabinets that will meet your needs.

A well thought out decision requires preparation. With proper preparation and research, you can avoid choosing cabinets that you later regret because they did not meet your expectations.

Our next articles will help provide some background to help assist you with making good choices.

Now that the concrete surface has been thoroughly tested for moisture, cleaned and free of all paint, grease, oil and other foreign materials, abraded to a minimum of 5 mil through the use of shot blasting or acid etching, and all cracks and control joints have been filed, the garage floor is now properly prepared to receive a coating. Areas that you do not want painted should be taped-off with painters tape (masking tape can be very difficult to remove, particularly after it has bee coated with paint).

Provide sufficient light, power, heat and working conditions to permit proper installation. Some paints are affected by extreme temperatures and this may affect how they cure. Check the manufacturer’s instructions on the appropriate temperature you can work within.

Make sure you have enough product to complete the job. The rates of coverage will vary by manufacturer, but keep in mind that if you are applying two coats to make sure you have enough product on hand to complete the job. For example, if the coverage rate of your product is 250 square feet per gallon per coat, this means that one gallon of product will cover 125 square feet with two thin coats of paint.

Some floor coating products may be applied directly to a damp surface, but in all cases standing water should be completely removed; check your manufacturer’s instructions to be sure. If waterproofing is required, this will need to be applied prior to the base coat to manufacturer’s instructions to achieve an optimal 40 mil membrane to effectively seal out moisture from affecting adhesion of the flooring system.

Installation of a flooring system varies by product – users should consult the manufacturers specific installation instructions to achieve the best results.

STEP ONE: SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Before you begin application of the epoxy coating, it is important to be reminded of the health and safety issues associated with these products. It is common for people to be sensitive or allergic to epoxy-based products. Exposure to epoxy may cause an allergic reaction, some which can be severe. [As a general contractor I should know, I ended up being treated on two separate occasions after having multiple exposures to epoxy – the result was similar to a severe case of poison oak and your bodies reaction can intensify with each additional exposure].

As a precaution against an allergic reaction, it is very important to read the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) that accompanied your product before starting your project and wear impervious gloves, splash proof googles, impervious body suit and a self-contained breathing apparatus. If you misplaced the MSDS sheet that came with your product, you can search the database of companies and their products by visiting MSDS.COM: http://www.msds.com/

In the event you react to epoxy, this resource might be helpful to answering questions:

http://dermnetnz.org/dermatitis/epoxy-allergy.html

Allow sufficient time for the installation of the flooring system. At no time should the speed of project completion be allowed to detrimentally affect the application. Allow for enough time to start and complete each step.

STEP TWO: MIX THE PRODUCT

Most floor coating products, whether they are epoxy or another paint material, consist of a two-part system that needs to be thoroughly mixed before they can be applied. If the the two-parts are not mixed to the exact measurements specified by the manufacturer or thoroughly mixed prior to application, the paint may not dry. Once a hardening agent (the catalyst) is added to pigment the product will immediately begin to cure and therefore cannot be saved and reused.

Mix the Catalyst and Paint

In a five-gallon bucket dump 1/2 of a gallon of the pigment followed by an equal amount of catalyst. The easiest way to mix the catalyst with the pigment is to use a cage mixer (available from your local hardware store) that is attached to a hand held power drill. Begin mixing at slow speeds and scrape the sides and bottom of the container to get the entire product blended properly. Work your way up to full speed for a minimum of 2-3 minutes until both components are thoroughly mixed.

Epoxy has a consistency, much like honey, that is thicker than other paints. Once the catalyst is added the product will begin to cure and it will become more challenging to work with the longer the paint is exposed to air. Generally speaking, epoxy paint products tend to dry slowly than most paints and typically have a 45-60 minute window in which to apply them before they will become more challenging to spread or become unusable.

STEP THREE: APPLY THE BASE COAT

The first application, the base coat, is the foundation for your coating and determines the long-term adhesion of the floor coating system.

Pour approximately ¼ of a gallon of the paint onto the floor in a straight line 24” to 36” long, not in pile. Starting in a back corner first, trim the edges and all vertical surfaces with a bristle brush. With the area closest to the wall complete, move onto the main part of the floor using a foam roller attached to a long handle poll. The few extra dollars to purchase a large 18” roller may be worth the additional cost as a 12” or smaller roller will take longer to complete.

Apply the First Coat using a Foam Roller

Work in small section of about 30 square feet at a time by dumping out ¼-gallon of the paint product directly onto the floor across an 8-foot section or so. Make smooth, uninterrupted rolling motions in one direction, going up or down to complete a section and then reversing directions left-to-right for full coverage. This “crosshatch” method of rolling from left-to-right and then overlapping your work front-to-back is recommended to give optimum coverage. Work at a steady pace being careful not to spin your roller too swiftly or you may splatter paint in area you don’t want it to fall.

STEP THREE: ALLOW THE FIRST COAT TO DRY COMPLETELY

Maintaining good airflow through the use of circulating fans and keeping doors open will aid the drying process and dissipate the odor from these products which can be strong.

Allow the flooring system to dry overnight before you apply the second coat, which will be the basis for our next article.

These Cracks will need to be Repaired Before a Coating can be Applied

Now that your concrete garage floor has been cleaned and prepared to accept a coating, the next step is to inspect the surface for indentations, holes and cracks. A certain amount of cracks appearing on garage floors, due to drying shrinkage, movement or other causes, are to be expected and are unavoidable.

Although cracks seldom cause problems, they are unsightly and must be filled prior to application of a floor coating otherwise you risk having the defect project through the surface of the coating or may affect adhesion of the coating to the floor in areas where cracks are present.

Fortunately, there is an easy way for the do-it-yourself homeowner to permanently repair crack damage efficiently and effectively.

STEP ONE: CLEAN THE AREA AROUND THE CRACKS

To begin repairing cracks, you will need to clean the area around the damaged area. This is a time consuming task, but is actually the most important step in the process. Unless the area surrounding the cracked concrete is clean before you begin the patching and repairing process the patching compound will bond to dirt, instead of the concrete.

Depending on the size of the crack, use a wire brush or an angle grinder to remove all loose concrete and brush out any other bits and pieces of dirt and loose objects.

STEP TWO: WIDEN THE REPAIR AREA

This step might seem contrary to common sense, but you need to remove some of the concrete area surrounding the crack and widen it. This step is necessary because the concrete right surrounding a crack is inherently weaker and may not provide a good bond to the sealer.

Take an angle grinder and remove a small amount of the unsound concrete.

STEP THREE: CLEAN THE REPAIRED AREA

Clean the floor by vacuuming all of the dust from the floor. Here again, unless the repaired area is clean and free from dirt and contaminants, the patching compound will bond with those objects, instead of the concrete.

Do not use water to clean the floor as some compounds can take longer to cure or will not adhere to a surface that is damp.

STEP FOUR: APPY THE PATCHING COMPOUND

Now you are finally ready to apply the patching compound. There are a wide variety of compounds on the market that are manufactured to seal cracks in concrete, from self-leveling repair kits, to Quikrete to Bondo (yes, the same compound used in automotive body repair). Deciding which compound is best for a job should take into consideration the ease to which the product works, the budget for the project, the size of the cracks, and the availability of the product.

Mix a small amount of the patching compound per the manufacturers’ directions. Some patching compounds have fast cutting times, so it’s recommended that you work in small section of the repair area until you feel comfortable with the pace at which the compounds sets.

A flexible putty knife or steel trowel works well for this procedure. Apply a minimum of filler so that the cracks are covered and a small amount of the compound rises slightly above the surface of the repaired area.

STEP FIVE: ALLOW THE PATCH TO CURE/SAND THE EXCESS MATERIAL

After the concrete patching compound has hardened, remove the excess material. Slowly grind the excess material using an angle grinder or hand sander supplied with an 80-grit disc until the repaired area is flush with the surrounding concrete.

JOB LIST OF PRODUCTS AND MATERIALS FOR THIS PROJECT

1. Wire Brush
2. Angle Grinder or Hand Sander
3. Concrete Filler
4. Flexible Putty Knife
5. Broom and Dust Pan
6. Shop Vac
7. Hearing and Eye Protection